The introduction of Code 11.59 should be the biggest action of Audemars Piguet in the last 20 years. At the beginning of this month, when this series was just exposed, we have already said in the article, don’t look at the consistency of Chinese and foreign netizens, and spray them up. What’s the story of “Love the fashion watch?”, in the end, maybe there will be a big reversal of the attitude of the t-like oak.
This is not, the time has not yet reached one month, and this prediction has been partially fulfilled. Some of the friends who have seen the real thing have been sneering and sardonic, admiring how beautiful the series is. The real thing is much better than the net map… All this is actually understandable, just look at the net map, I also don’t think it looks good. Poor Audemars Piguet, I don’t know how long it will take to recover this reputational loss that was ridiculed by the whole network.
Not much to say about the value of the face, it is useless to say more. In fact, in addition to the appearance, this series of movements also have a lot of points, especially the 4400 series chronograph movement, today we will talk about it.
All along, in the chronograph movement, Audemars Piguet has not been able to come up with a strong performance commensurate with its status (except for some high-end concept watches made at the Le Locle APRP watch factory). Its chronograph movement is either based on the FP1185 or a Dubois-Depraz module for its 3120 movements. The emergence of the 4400 series eased this embarrassment and was a small breakthrough.
It is said that in order to make this movement, Audemars Piguet spent almost five years, and it is also inseparable from the management’s painful determination. According to some sources, in 2013, Bennahmias, who had just taken over as president of Audemars Piguet, closed everyone in the product team to a conference room and ordered the death: “The new movement must be done. Everyone will give me a thought.” Come out. Don’t go out if you can’t come out.” Looking at the leopard in the tube, it is not easy to develop this new movement.
The two new movements that Audemars Piguet launched during this year’s Geneva show: 4302 and 4401, all of which have been the result of years of research and development. The former is a three-needle calendar movement and the latter is an integrated chronograph movement. They are the same diameter, and the barrel, wheel train, and adjustment are similar.
When designing the 4401 calibers, the primary consideration is timing accuracy. Therefore, it uses a fixed swing plate instead of a single-arm, that is, both sides of the plate are fixed by one screw. Its balance wheel has a moment of inertia of 12.5 mg/cm^2, which guarantees fairly good stability compared to this “large body” movement. The vibration frequency is 28,800 times/hour, and the storage is 70 hours. Two-way ball bearing, two-way winding (this is the same as the 4010 movements).
The use of the crown is more traditional, and different functions such as winding, date adjustment, and time adjustment can be realized through different gear positions. When the crown is pulled, the associated gears are “tilted” to engage the date correction wheel or the time correction wheel to switch between different functional modes.
In terms of details, this movement uses a vertical clutch. Compared with the horizontal clutch, when the timing gear is running, it avoids the problem of touching teeth, broken teeth, and even the chronograph second-hand beating, which is consistent with the positioning of this movement. Of course, if it is really broken, it will be more troublesome to repair.
The 4401 is a flyback chronograph movement that can be zero-returned and restarted at the same time with a single push of a button. It is quick and easy. Naturally, the cost of this is the increased complexity of the movement. Particularly striking is the three return-to-zero hammers in the movement (when the stop is timed, the zero-return hammer hits the heart-shaped projections on the chronograph wheel, the second hand is reset to zero), and their positions are designed to be closer and patchy. It looks very pleasing to the eye.
When it comes to the appearance, the appearance of this movement is also maintained at a certain level. The satin-brushed, the Geneva pattern and the pearl pattern are all more sincere, and even the inconspicuous places can be covered; the large chamfer of the splint is polished. Quite good; 22K gold oscillating weight made a big hollow with the word “AP”, with personality. The only problem is that the industrial wind is a little bit thicker and lacks the elegance of hand-made watchmaking.
This caliber has a warranty of 5 years. According to my personal speculation, Audemars Piguet should not take this movement outside for a short time. According to Audemars Piguet’s production capacity, some parts of the movement should be outsourced, such as hairsprings, springs, gems and so on.
In general, the new movement of Audemars Piguet reflects a lot of progress and is worthy of appreciation. A little lack of appearance does not affect the overall situation. The key is to see if the indicators such as pricing and failure rate can support Audemars Piguet’s ambitions. What do you think?